Is Tokyo Livable as a Tech Innovation Hub?

The Tokyo Metropolitan Government (TMG) launched the 2019 Invest Tokyo Program to attract and facilitate the entry of foreign startups and VCs into Japan. This program aims to help startups leverage and unlock the myriad of business opportunities available in Japan. I was invited to be a Tokyo ambassador and to a learning trip to Tokyo (together with other fintech and tech influencers from leading start-up capitals from Paris, London and New York) to explore the innovation ecosystem in Tokyo.

My previous article on the innovation trip can be found here https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/tokyo-tech-innovation-hub-chia-hock-lai/

As part of the trip, I planned to look at the livability aspects of Tokyo too, by arriving a day or two earlier, and experience living in Tokyo as a foreigner.

Day of Arrival: Roppongi

On the 27th July 2019, a Saturday morning, I took the Japan Airline (JAL) (to complete the experience I try to use all things japan for this trip :)) flight from Singapore Changi Airport and arrived at Tokyo Narita airport in the evening, after a 6.5 hours flight. My flight with JAL was surprisingly pleasant, with service levels comparable to that of Singapore Airlines, but at a lower price point.

Tokyo is famous for its very well connected train network which I relied upon to arrive at my lodging for the next six days - the Candeo Hotel located at the famed entertainment area of Roppongi.

Candeo Hotels at Roppongi

After checking into the hotel, I took a quick dinner at one of the yakitori restaurants and stroll around the famed Roppongi district. Roppongi district was a rather lively entertainment district where locals and tourists mix in late-night bars and clubs.

Dinner at one of the yakitori restaurants in Roppongi 

Day of Exploration: First Stop at Nogi Shrine 

The following day, which was a Sunday, was the perfect day to start exploring areas around Roppongi.   

The first stop was to visit the Nogi Shrine, which was established on November 1, 1923 and dedicated to General Nogi Maresuke and his wife Nogi Shizuko after their death on September 13, 1912. Following the death of Emperor Meiji in 1912, the general and his wife decided to prove their dedication to the leader by joining him in death. The General committed Seppuku while his wife slit her throat – in the house right next door to the shrine. 

Nogi Shrine near the Nogizaka station 

The former residence of General Noji is also located next to the shrine but I was only able to wander around the compound as the residence is only open to visitors on two days of the year: the eve and anniversary of their death. 

Former residence of General Noji

National Art Center, Tokyo (NACT)

 After a quick tea break at a nearby cafe, I walked over to the National Art Center, Tokyo (NACT), which is a unique and innovative art exhibition facility. With a total of 14,000 square meters of exhibition space, one of the largest in Japan, its focuses on serving as a venue for various art exhibitions and provide people with opportunities to experience amazing and diverse expressions of creativity. NACT is befitting to Tokyo, an international city that attracts people and ideas from all over Japan as well as the rest of the world. 

The National Art Center, Tokyo (NACT)

 Roppongi Hills Mori Tower: Pixar and Art

After lunch, I went over to the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, which is a 54-story mixed-use skyscraper and the sixth-tallest building in Tokyo at 238 meters. in Roppongi, Minato, Tokyo. Completed in 2003 and named after builder Minoru Mori, it is the centerpiece of the Roppongi Hills urban development. It features offices, apartments, shops, restaurants, a hotel, art museums, an observation deck and more. 

The Observation Deck offers an unparalleled view of the Tokyo skyline and also happened to be hosting the “The Science Behind Pixar”, which offers an amazing exhibition of the production pipeline and concepts used in Pixar films.

Observation Deck at the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower

 “The Science Behind Pixar” at the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower Observation Deck

Meanwhile The Mori Art Museum was also hosting the largest-ever solo exhibition by Shiota Chiharu, a Berlin-based international artist known for performances and installations that express the intangible: memories, anxiety, dreams, silence and more. Particularly well-known is her series of powerful installations consisting of threads primarily in red and black strung across entire spaces.

Solo Exhibition by Shiota Chiharu at The Mori Art Museum

The Hidden Shrine: Hie Shrine

My next stop was to visit the Hie Shrine, one of the major shrines of Tokyo and popular with tourists and locals. It was a pleasant and serene place to walk around despite being surrounded by the hustle and bustle emanating from the neighboring tall commercial buildings. The highlight is the shrine’s back entrance with the path lined by 90 bright red torii gates.

Hie Shrine: Facing to the entrance gate 

Inner Shrine within Hie Shrine

Tokyo Midtown: City within the city

Next on my list to visit was the Tokyo Midtown, a city within the city in the center of Tokyo's Roppongi district for luxurious shopping and cutting-edge art. 

While on the way walking (yes everywhere seems to be within walking distance ;)) I came across the Midtown garden, which was a rather pleasant surprise to discover such greenery amidst the tall skyscrapers. There was even a “rock garden” enclosed by wide wooden open-air veranda and clouds of mist for a truly surreal experience!  

Garden next to the Tokyo Midtown

Tokyo Midtown garden with wide wooden veranda enclosing a “rock garden,” complete with clouds of mist.

Meanwhile, The Tokyo Midtown complex has everything one would need, ranging from international restaurants, galleries, chic homewares to a stylish supermarket.

Conclusion

After a day exploring the largely the Roppongi area of Tokyo, and before the start of the “business” side of things for this trip to Japan trip, I am rather convinced by the cultural richness of Tokyo and its livability, despite the fact the places I visited only represent a relatively small fraction of places of interest in the larger Tokyo area. 

One could easily get around with the super-efficient train network, wine and dine in various local and international restaurants, shop at chic shopping areas, get inspired in the various art museums or seek serenity in shrines and gardens. Tokyo has successfully fused various elements of cultural diversity and modern comfort into a first-world city, a megacity also known to be the largest urban area with a population of more than 38m people.